MEMORIES OF HOMETOWN BAKERY

PAN DE SAL

Nothing stirs more nostalgic memories than the aroma of a small town bakery at dawn (sometimes with the stars yet) when the freshly baked loaves are shoveled out of the wood fire oven. Pan de Sal, once upon a time it was kingly size, with hard crust and cracked top. Only the alternative to it were the breads called Pan De Limon and Pan de Leche, all seemingly synonyms for the bread with ridges on top, like two halves joined together. The large delicious soft bread was the Pan de Mongja or "Nun's bread," whose name through the tears evolved into a racier monay, slang for the female private part. All were good for dunking in hot chocolate*, or eating with a sliver of keso de bola (Edam from Holland) or hamon de punda ( Chinese ham similar to the Smithsfield of Virginia).

The Pan de Sal that one can get nowadays are not the kind that I grew to love then. Today, I can't reconcile myself to call them Pan De Sal. I facetiously call them "Pan De Sweet." The real one has a hint of saltiness and like I said above, they have a crusty top like a French bread. Today, the bakers buy the pre-mixed flour that all they have to add is water...and they used the ready mixed flour for almost every thing , like the Pan De leche, Dinner rolls, etc. They don't have the salty taste, but sweet.

By mid morning the bakery converted the stale cakes into mamon tostado, sweet toasted slices beloved by children. With the addition of margarine and sugar, old Pan Amercano (loaf bread) was re-baked and become biscocho. Biscocho Pricipe, in turn, was nothing but re-baked monay slices. Ensaymada, like the croissants only the are in the rounds and smoothered with butter or margarine and dusted with sugar was part of the bakery repertoire as the pianono or jellyrolls.

Food style changes with life styles at times, and in the slower, lazier days of biscuits* had a role in the Philippine life. It was for the people who had the time to nibble and savor it, with a cup of hot chocolate, coffee or tea as part of the ritual merienda. The lost of popularity shows in the diminished numbers of biscuits jars in todays bakeries. In the old days there was quite an assortment of biscuits: the ever-present round, powdery galletas, the square galletas de patatas with upturned corners, the round aglipay which was light brown, somewhat dry but flaky, araro a powdery concoction made from the arrow root flour, the coin size sweet pacencia a biscuit named after a virtue (patience). For the kids there is a long crisp scalloped, round at both ends called margarita or masa flora. They sell for two for one centavo, equivalent to two cents those days. Toady, fast food eateries abound Manila. Every shopping malls have there signature food courts where one can satisfy his gustatory pleasures. All the "biscuits" are sold in packs wrapped with cellophanes. Yes, gone are the square jars that houses my chilhood delights.

In the afternoon, when the bread peddlers returned with unsold breads the recycling contained, nothing went to waste. There was always a tray of buding, (bread pudding) in the bakery that could be bought by the slice. The best buy for one's money was the machacao, which was a mixture of all two days old bread - cut in cubes pan de sal, monays, pan de leche sometimes even bits of ensaymada. They are all dumped in large baking trays pushed into the oven and toasted. I can call this the Filipino biscotti. They will reappeared in a large Kaing. a deep open basket and were sold five centavo a big bag. From here too came the bread crumbs for thickening the lechon sauce, for the pochero and other dishes that calls to be thickened. Anything still stubbornly unsold was converted into vile pastries with bright pink or purple fillings, their last stand and ultimate disguise...ugh!

* biscuits - anything that resembled a cookie type baked breads are called biscuits in the Philippines during my time. I am sure that to these days anything like cookies in the tins in England are called biscuits

*hot chocolate - my maternal grandfather prepares the chocolate akin to the Mexican that I have seen today. the chocolate come from the local market in big tablet forms or from the backyard cacao tree. It will be grated while the water is boiling...with a special elongated enameled pot the grated chocolate and boiling water will be beaten with a batidor, a slender wooden pole with a serated head. With both hands, the pole will be between the palms and roll it back and forth rythmically until the mixture is foamy... then to the cups.

BIZZARRE FOOD

Last Sunday, I watched the re-run of Bizarre Food of the World with a guy by the name of Andrew Zimmerm. I have seen the show before but I found it interesting because I was thinking of blogging the odd and exotic foods from the Philippines. The Americas' Europe and the East countries has been featured. The segment of the Philippines, I think is not very well represented. There are some missing that I know from experience and knowing what there is in my home land. Of course they featured the balut (boiled fourteen days unfertilized duck egg).

What I am going to write here are things I have seen, but won't dare eat them...maybe if I am that hungry and it is for survival....and some that I have eaten.

A veritable source of food, specially vegetables is the backyard of almost all the Filipinos homes in the countryside. Vegetables patch, a pig pen and a small poultry are found. Malungay

(horseradish tree) is planted for its leaves, fruits and flowers which goes into stews and salads. The fruit of this tree are long and slender. They are skinned and cut Julienne and goes with a chicken stew, of course , seasoned with bagoong. The trees doubles as a fence, too. Another sturdy tree that is familiar plant in the backyard or front yard is the Katuray. They are grown for the young and tender fruits and blossoms. The white petals of the blossoms resembles a folded wings of an angel is particularly used for salad. To me they look like white orchids hanging on the tree.My mother make some good salad with them when they are available in the market. The petals are separated from the stamen, pestle are removed and will pour hot hot water to wilt them. A dressing of olive oil and white vinegar, a dash of sugar. seasoned with smoked fish flakes. Onions and tomatoes goes with the salad.

The Filipinos goes farther from the backyard garden for food. The rice fields and rivers often yields weeds and water plants, which, perhaps considered weird by others, are found nutritious by the natives. I remember gathering amargoso or papait, a field weed boiled with a dash of salt and marinated in vinegar. or add to mung bean or fresh corn soup. There is the balla-iba, transparent spade-like leaves good for salads. The stem of the river gabi (taro) stripped of its skin and cut into pieces, goes well with stewed hito (catfish) in coconut sauce seasoned with bagoong. Not to mention pako, or forest Fern very good for salads. Freshly gathered mushrooms abounds during rainy seasoned which is a favorite in our house. They came fro the countryside brought to the city by walking vendors. The river also yield a variety of small shrimps called lagdao that are always eaten live with calamodin ang bagoong. But this is really a delicacy because it is hard to come by. When food is scarse, the women and children go knee deep in mud puddies and search with their fingers for mullusk and shells. they boil the meat and eat with rice and sweet potatoes.

At the start of the rainy season, hordes of insects of thick-winged salagubang or beetles flock to the tamarind trees for refuge and food. It is the time to catch them by the baskets. The feelers and wings are removed and cooked adobo style, toasted to crisp and eaten as side dish or as pututan, beer accompaniment. Locust and the crickets are cooked the same way. Locust are seasonal are not always available. You have to get used to their big heads, but once you swallow your fear, you can chomp away the rest on the plate.

The bayawak, a lizard grows up to five feet has become a delicacy among the drinking menfolks. Traps are set where people complain of their chickens disappearing during the night. They use their long tail to hit and kill the chickens. The lizard feeds on chickens and has been regarded as pest. When there is no chicken they feed on fish from the river. In some places the lizards are captured with the aid of dogs. I was told that the meat has a texture of chicken and best cooked abodo style or stew with green papaya . The eggs are also eaten, boiled in salted water for 30 minutes. The eggs remain soft with a toothpaste consistency. Frogs from the rice field are plenty and can be cooked in a variety of dishes.

The snails are one of the delicacy of the country. Before the onset of planting rice. The rice fields are scoured to get the snails which is considered a pest. The white kuhol (apple snails) was introduced in the country from South Africa. They are harvested by the baskets, soaked in water with alum to remove the digested food that the snails have eaten. This is cheaper than soaking them in beer. In some places they will extract the meat, dry them in the sun or at low temperature ovens, dredged the with corn starch and flour, dipped in eggs and deep fried andeaten like a chicharon. I have not tasted this but in our house, my mom will buy Kuhol (black snails) from the market. soaked them like the apple snails, individually cut the end of the shell, for easy release of the meat. Sauteed garlic and onions until translucent, the snails will be stir-fried with bagoong to taste. Coconut milk , kankong (swamp cabbage) mild whole pepper will be added . This best way to extract them meat is to remove the outer shell covering, slurpped with a little air and the meat will come out. There is another kind of snails that you can get in the market, the black spiral snails, but it is not the house favorite because it has a bitter taste.

The preparation of meat for the daily consumptions is basically guisado (sauteed) or sarciado (with tomato sauce). The influence of long Spanish rule in the Philippines. The cooks has all the ingredients a stone throw away in his backyard. Salt is always plenty, by cooking the sea water until it give a fine white residues. Beef innards are cleaned with papaya leaves and cooked for different recipe. This is also done the same with pigs and goats. The bile gall is save for ingredient for sinsglao , singcuchar and imbalihtad recipes. The recipe calls for the choice cuts of the lining of the intestines and innard of the cow which we call goto (tripes). In some region, specially the Ilocos region, the kari-kari uses the head and neck of the pig. Higado is minced pork meat. liver, lungs and kidneys cooked in vinegar, garlic, peppercorn. The dinuguan. (blood stew) calls for the innards of the pig, liver and plenty of blood. In some areas, Goto (tripes) boiled cow's intestines with chunks of coagulated blood and cow's brain is a delicacy. Outside south of Manila, in the Taal region, they are famous for their horse meat tapa (jerky). You will find them hanging like curtains in quaint market stalls. Tapang kabayo (horse meat jerky) with fried rice can be found in some speciality restaurants in Manila. The tapang kabayo ( horse meat jerky) when cooked has the color of dark brown leather shoes. with a suitable horsy smell, with texture not unlike beef, and a taste that could be best described as manly. The horse meat and fried rice can be taken with coffee for breakfast, soft drink for snacks, or beer in the evening.

In the country side it is common practice among the families to fatten a pig, a goat or a cow and slaughter it for spacial occasions...like fiestas, baptism, weddings, the 40 days mourning or bienvenidas or despididas ( welcomes and goodbyes). A whole goat slaughtered specially for a big gathering. From one goat a variety of recipe can involve. The legs will be roasted, the shoulder for stewing or for caldereta a stew with tomato sauce, liver and garnished with olives and grated cheese. The skin is singed to remove the hair and cut into small pieces and goes with the innards and some meats and made into kilawin, a ceviche type appetizer or an accompaniment for beer guzzlers. Another version of the kilawin kambeng, is the adition of bile cooked previously in vinegar and added to the concoction to give the dish a bitter taste. Actually this dish originated out of necessity during the Spanish era. Since wealthy landowners and friars always gets the best cut of the slaughtred cow or caraboa, the poor had to contend themselves with the entrails. After the entrails are washed and cleaned thoroughly, they boil them water with salt and ginger until soft...and different dishes are borne.

I had the privilege being a wedding sponsor in Ilocos del Norte...what an experience! The party night before the wedding as one of the guest of honor. I was given the eyes of the goat that was in the kilawin. We were gathered under a makeshift palapa outside. I am fortunate that there was a dog nearby waiting for handouts. He ate it! Not me!

A pet pig is not one to play with. It is a litter kept for a year in a separate pen away fro the other pigs. The Ilocanos have what they call bagnet. The pet pig after a year or so was slaughtered and provides the family an ample supply of meat and pork fat for almost a year. Bagnet is a whole chunk of spareribs cooked in salted water until most of the fat was rendered. A cook bagnet looks like a lechon kawali (pan-crisp pork shoulder) with the ribs still intact and can be eaten as chopped pieces dipped in vinegar and garlic sauce or with onions, garlic and tomatoes with bagoong. They also served as flavoring ingredients for other dishes that calls for pork.

In the mountain provinces, meat is traditionally eaten by the natives of Beguet only during feast or whenever a important visitors came around. But since they are in frequent communication with the beings of the other world and all kinds of spirits, they are constantly holding a kanyaw (ceremonial rites) to implore their Gods for a bountiful harvest, safe journey and good health. However if an accident or sickness occurs, they also seek relief and consolation in the kanyaw until their prayers are answered. then again, they celebrate a feast in thanksgiving.

Contrary to popular belief, the mountain trbes are sensitive to raw food. They either roast or boil them. Very seldom they sautee their food, and oil, garlic and onions are hardly used. No table though is without siling labuyo (small hot pepper) and salt which is used for sauce during meals.

In some places, skulls of pigs, cows, carabao and other animals used duting the kanyaw are hung in rows around the house to indicate how many feast have been celebrated. Each grouping show the quantity of animals slaughtered for a particular feast. Pretige and wealth is counted by the skulls.

In the remote areas, the well-to-do have their kerosene refrigerators. Others use huge burnay (earthen jars ) where the inasinan or salted pork and beef are stored and aged, sometimes for as long as a year.Whenever they have guests, they cut portions of the meat and boil them with vegetables. The other portions of the slaughtered animal are out and dried eventually end tp be what they call as itag or Igorot ham which can be kept to a long period of time. When your native host mixes a piece of itag and pinik-pikan chicken and serce you, you are considered as a very important guest. The pinik-pikan is a term for killing the chicken. For the highlanders, the kiling of a chicken always have a significance. It is used as offering to the Gods or celebrating some ocassion. They call the ceremony of holding the chicken by its two legs and beating the chicken to its death....thus pinipikan literally translate to "killing-me-softly." As soon as the chicken dies, they burn the feathers over a the fire and cut the chicken in half to expose the liver. they check the position of the bile for signs and give them interpretations, whether the ceremony is in honor of a visitor or somebody embarking a journey.

Dogs have ceremonial value and and also considered a delicacy in the mountain ethnic groups. They say that the supreme compliment one can pay to man's best friend is to eat it. The natives believe that drinking the blood of a black dog, raw and still warm will cure tuberculosis or asthma. It is a commom knowledge the prepartion of killing a dog takes about a week. The poor dog destined to be slaughtered will be deprive of anything to eat. After a week the dog will be given some rice gruel, The entrails will be full of gruel when the dog is killed. The delicacy part of the dog is the entrails with the gruel that they cherished....huh! There is also the pinoneg, sausages made of entrails and blood of the dog well seasoned with lots of black pepper.

Bizzarre...? not with the natives.

BAGOONG. ACQUIRED-FILIPINO TASTE

THE ILOCANOS' LIFESTYLE IS BUILT AROUND THEIR BAGOONG LADEN-STOVE

The Ilocanos lives in the narrow strip of hard land bounded by the forbidding Cordillera mountain range on one side and the treacherous China Sea on the other. The land is dry most of the year but flooded during rainy season. The limitation of their region have driven many Ilocanos to greener pastures in far-flung lands but those who chose to stay must fight the odds, plant for food and be patient to coax the land and sea for their existence.

Ever wonder why the Ilocanos is persevering, thrifty and hard working? Sometimes the ILovanos can only contemplate on natures stinginess on his region, sign in resignation and come up with a song or verse about his existence in the land of his birth. But to live and become a composer or poet, he must be forever work the land--planting for food, for the money to send his children to school.

Part of the culinary adventure is learning that the Ilocanos have a whole lifestyle built in the kitchen cooking, planning a week's menu, stocking on salt, vinegar and condiments, preserving fruits of the season, smoking a ham for Christmas or a special occasion, picking vegetables, curing home-made corned beef. Other lesson learned along the way in relation to Ilocano food are avowed thrift, self-reliance and self sufficiency of the Ilocano.

Unless forewarned, the first timer coming upon atypical Ilocano meal will be turned off by the smell or taste of the Bagoong in most of the fod served. Bagoong (fermented fish sauce, usually made from small fish like anchovies or other small fish from Lake Buhi), is the base of most Ilocan vegetable dishes such as dinengdeng or pinakbet. Those two Ilocano staples are mixtures of leafy vegetables, fruits and flowers and stewed with broiled or fried fish. The dinengdeng is cooked with broth (sabaw) normally using the water from second washing of the rice. The pinakbet is sauteed and depends upon the natural juices of the vegetables.

DINENGDENG

Dinengdeng also called inabraw, is a dish of the Ilocano, similar to pinakbet. It is classified as bagoong soup based dish. Unlike the pinakbet, dinegdeng contains fewer vegetables and contain more bagoong soup base. This dish contains a few of the following vegetables combination: jute leaves, the pods and leaves of the horseraddish tree (malunggay), the leaves and fruits of the bitter melons (ampalaya) calabasa, the shoots and its blossoms...sometimes sweet potato tubers and young leaves. wax gourd (upo)and shoots, eggplant, okra, sting beans (sitaw), hyacinth beans (bataw), patani, (lima beans), chayote squash and shoots and banana blossoms, corn, whole taro , purple yams, and cassava tubers. Winter melon (kondol) when available. Leftover fried fish or other meats are addedto the dish.

If you are adverse to the smell of bagoong but have the stomach for it, like you would with some other weird foods, then your adventure into the Ilocano cuisine should rightly begin. And it begins in the kitchen where one is likely to find some high-fired earthen jar called (burnay) filled with fermented fish sauce, some of them desirably aged. Sure there are some vintage bagoong as there are some vintage vinegar or native wine from Nipa saps.

Being a Tagalog, we prefer the other kind of bagoong. The Tagalog bagoong is made by fermenting Krill of shrimp fries. The family of my grandmother has tapayan (large high-fired

jars for storage) and she owns a few of them in different sizes. She uses the big ones rice and salt. She own a not too small jars for preserves like dalok green mangoes and mustard greens. Some particular jar is for the shrimp Bagoong and for burong dalag (mud fish with cooked rice and spices. The later when on its prime is with pink- purple hue. This is later cooked with coconut milk.

One thing I remember while watching her do the process, after the meticulous cleaning the shrimps fries, picking small sea water snails and seaweeds, she will divide them in three part.

This way, she can tell how much salt she will use. So the recipe is 1 part salt to three parts of shrimp fries. She never but bagoong in the market bacause for her they are always saltier than it should be. The concoction is nothing but the shrimp fries and salt...but she have secret. beforehand she will gather some mature leaves of either bataw (hyacinth beans) or patani (Lima beans). carefully washing them and placed on top of the salted fries then cover the jar with a katsa (gauze material) taut-tied along the rim of the jar. This will insure her that it will not be spoiled with maggots... in a week or so, it is ready to be sauteed with garlic, onions and tomatoes with small pieces of browned pork. This will be an accompaniment for kare-kare (ox tail stew) and enhancement for the Tagalog style pinakbet, and other recipes that calls for the concoction. During the summer season when fruits are in abundance, the bagoong is for green mangoes, guavas and other sour fruits. It is also good with slices of sinkamas (Jicama) instead of just plain salt..'

IS IT GREEK OR IS IT ARAB?

" SPANKOPITA"

The above picture was the resultsof my "Greek" adventure with the New Zealand Spinach from my backyard as pictured below. The plant is very prolific...It does not need any pampering and they seed themselves every year. What I like about this spinach is there is a more of bite to it than the regular store bought spinach.

"NEW ZEALAND SPINACH"

I am always fascinated going to ethnic grocery stores. One of my favorites was the "International Grocerie" (that is how they spell grocery on their sign board). This one was owned by a Palestinian, but they closed the store after so many years shopping there. I think I am the only Filipino that shopped there. Mihcal the owner knew me and so did Wahdi who worked there. The store now is owned by an Arab looking man with a long scraggly beard. I don't like the set up of the store at all...They have an eating place in front now and the merchandise is Topsy-turvy! Luckily there is another store on Balboa Avenue...another "Internationl Grocery" newly opened and the store is very nice, clean and have the things I like to buy. This is where I get my goat cheese, filo dough leaves, puffed pastry dough, olives, sultana raisins, fresh and dried dates, dried apricots and many other things...Lucky me because it is also closer to home.

SPANAKOPITA

If you have the plant...separate each leaves from the stem, discard the stem, wash and clean and parboil in a pot of water.

2 lbs. spinach leaves

Drain, chop and set aside. Let stand for 15 minutes, then press out all the liquids.

In a bowl, combine;

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1/2 cup fresh dill

2 cups finely chopped onions

1 tsp. salt

the par-boiled spinach

Heat:

1/4 cup Extra-virgin Olive oil

Add and saute until soft and transparent:

3 cups chopped onion

Add:

the spinach mixture and saute for a few minutes

Add:

1/2 lb. feta cheese

1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

Prepare the filo leaves:

Place each filo leaf in a buttered 10" x 17" x 2" baking pan, brushing each leaf with melted clarified butter. Add the spinach mixture, spread into a thick layer then add the remaining filo l;eaves, again brushing with melted clarified butter. Cut into 3'' X 3" pieces with a sharp knife.

Bake a 375 degrees for 30 minutes until golden brown.

LOQUATS

Loquats from the backyard

Loquat Strudel

The strudel that I knew of was made of apples. Our loquat trees has always provided us with ample fruit every year. We are up to our gills with the fruits. So I decided to do something with them. Why not make a strudel? Whether you make strudel dough yourself or buy it---for it comes ready to use---there are endless possibilities for the "interior decoration".

Prepare the filling in advance since the loquats needs to be peeled and seeded...drop them into a large mixing bowl with water to cover with 1 tablespoon salt. When all the fruits are peeled and seeded, drain and combined with:

You should have 5 to 6 cups of the fruits.

1/2 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon rind
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup melted butter

You can buy your strudel dough or use the filo dough (remember you have to brush melted butter on each layer of the filo dough---this is rich in calories...but good!).

I make my own dough the old fashion way;

1 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt

Work with your hand...

1/2 cup room temperature lard

...until the grain in the mixture is pea size.

Stir in;

3 tablespoon ice cold water

...until the mixture holds together when you gather it into a ball. With a rolling pin, shape the dough into a 8 x 12 sheet, place the fruit mixture and roll into a log. Securing both ends. Scour the top with a knife, brush the top with scrambled egg...sprinkle some sugar on top. Place on a pre-heated 375 degree oven for about 40 minutes or until the tops oozes some juice and golden brown...

Serve with vanilla ice cream or grated cheddar cheese while it is hot or warm.

THE INSIDER - A MATTER OF DISCRETION

The Filipinos are not squeamish eating the "menudencia" or "lamang-loob", what the Afro-American calls "offal" (the waste part of an animal for food). A home slaughtered pig, is the "piece de resistance" for a huge gathering or fiesta. Liver sauce is a must for the "lechon" or roasted pig in a poke. The other parts, like the intestines are hosed down and gingerly inverted, scrubbed with papaya leaves and blanched in salted water. These are used for casing homemade "longoniza" or sausages, or for "dinuguan", a recipe that you will encounter here. Today you can find almost every Asian markets sells them and that you can buy it cleaned, sometimes precooked, so that your job is the final cooking.

I still won't eat anything that I have not prepared in the case of what I call "The Insiders". In some cases, I substitute the meat ingredients to my liking.

TRIPE

This "insider" is the muscular lining of the beef stomach. There are 4 kinds, all of which are used at least in one or two Filipino classic recipes. There is the "fat " of the belly, then there are three different sections of the honeycomb tripe which comes from the second stomach of the cow.---the extremity of the the belly, which is only partially honeycomb. The honeycomb is more expensive than the others. In Italy, I was fascinated with the street vendors in the city and beaches that peddled boiled tripe, cut in big square pieces, eaten by the consumers with a twist of lemon wedges. Honestly, I did not have the nerve to try them. I had them at home from my own kitchen...it was even bought at the Navy Commissary.

"PAMPLINA" HONEYCOMB TRIPE STEW

In the different region of Spain, "callos" has been prepared similarly with variations. My mother cooked this dish on special occasions and as I remember it was eaten with "puto Binang", a very light, yellowish in color steamed rice cakes. This dish is eaten not as main course, but somewhere between meals because steamed rice is not part of it. I am guessing that the original dish came from Pamoploma, Spain, I am also sure that there has been some alteration somewhere. I had encountered and tasted a few, one is called "Callos Madrillena." but not as good as how my mother prepared it. Of course the recipe below was only adapted from her recipe ...I made a few twists here and there.

Wash the tripe thoroughly in cold water, blanch in a boiling water for 5 minutes, Drain and transfer to a big pot to hold. (If you have a pressure cooker, cook them for half an hour).

Two pieces of honeycomb tripe, about 3 lbs
1 onion, quartered
2 bay laves

If you are cooking in a big pot, skim the foam from the top of the boiling broth and simmer until the tripe is fork-tender. Remove from broth, let it cool and slice into bite size pieces. Strain the broth and set aside.

In a wok or skillet, saute:

4 rashers of bacon cut into small pieces and render fat.
(do not crisp-fry the bacon)

Add:

3 minced garlic cloves
1 diced onion
1 1-inch fresh ginger, minced
1 sweet red pepper, seeded and diced

Add and saute for 5 minute:

The sliced tripe
2 chorizo de Bilbao or pepperoni, sliced 1/8 inch

Transfer to the original pot with strained broth.

Add:
2 large potatoes, peeled and cut 1/2 cubes
1 8-o. canned chick peas(garbanzo beans) with the juice
1 8-oz. canned navy beans with juice.

Simmer until potatoes are done.

Stir in:

1 cup of cream or 1 can of evaporated milk

Correct seasoning with fish sauce and ground black pepper.

Served with grated Parmesan cheese on top.


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KARE=KARENG GOTO - TRIPE IN PEANUT SAUCE

With this recipe try to get at least two kinds of honeycomb so as to give you different textures.

Trim out the fat, wash and parboil for 5 minutes in water to cover, discard the water and wash again and drain. Cool.

Cut into 1x2 inches squares

3 lbs. honeycomb tripe

Have ready a heavy pot with lid
Add to enough water to cover:

1 beef bouillon cube
1 quartered onion
3 garlic cloves garlic
1 celery stalk
1 bay leaf

Bring to a boil and add tripe and simmer for 1 hour to one and one half hour until the tripe is fork tender. This depends how old the owner of the tripe was.. Drain and set aside, Strain the broth, discard the vegetables seasoning.

Pressure Cookers will cook the tripe fork-tender in 30 minutes

Meanwhile prepare the sauce;

Toast;

1/2 cup rice flour and set aside

In the same pot where you coked the tripe saute:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 minced garlic
1 diced onion

Add the saved broth.

Stir in;
2 canned coconut milk
2 Chinese eggplants, sliced 2-inches thick
1 lb. whole green beans or "sitaw"
1 lb. bok-choy, cut in 2 inches length
2 cans banana blossoms or frozen artichoke hearts
1 teaspoon annato or achuete
1 teaspoon azzafran blossoms("kasuha")

Simmer until vegetable are cook.

In a bowl put the toasted rice flour
1 cup peanut butter... I like the smooth type but you can use the other type.
Add some broth and stir before putting it to the tripe and vegetable mixture. Gently stir the stew, may add some more "extra" broth or water if needed.

* If you notice there is no salt added in the recipe...! It is suppose to be a bit bland but with the flavor of toasted rice and peanut butter.

This is served with "guisadong bagoong."


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DINUGUAN - BLOOD STEW


In a covered pot over medium heat, bring to boil:

6 cups of water
2 pounds boneless picnic or shoulder cut with skin pork
2 pounds chicken thighs
salt and pepper to taste

On the first boil, scoop the foam, discard and lower the heat
Continue until the meat is tender. Cool and cut into bite size cubes.
De-bone the chicken and cut the same size as the pork. Save he broth.

In a skillet or wok, saute until translucent;

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 minced garlic cloves

LET'S WARP THEM UP

Although the Philippines has never been under the Mexican regime, the culmination of over two hundred years trade route from Manila and Acapulco made an impact to some of the Philippine dishes. Mexican and Filipino sailors that sailed in the galleons must had exchanged recipes along the way that the "tamale" or what the Filipinos calls "tamales" (with an "s") came and stayed in the islands. In Cebu island, the natives use corn husk. I would assume because most of the Visayan islands are corn-eater natives of the Philippines. But predominantly, the Filipinos use a lot of banana leaves for wrapping food like some of the South American countries. This is specially in Pampanga, a suburb of Manila in Luzon...where according to historians, some Mexican sailor jumped ships, intermarried with he natives and settled in the area. There is a town in the area called Mexico.

In the Philippines. "tamales" is one of those dishes eaten when one craves something different for merienda or snack. They are not easily available, nor sold by the street vendors. In Mexico and even at the border cities of the US, one can buy them from the street vendors...in a cart with poratble stoves that you can assure that they are freshly hot. In Manila certain select establishments specializes in them. I remember in my younger day, Aristocrat Restaurant in Dewey boulevard (now Roxas Blvd.) sells them. They don't make them in their kitchen, but delivered by one of our relative from Jolo, Mandaluyong.They are related to my maternal grandmother.

TAMALES

In a wok or skillet, toast:

5 cups of rice flour, set aside

Combine with;

1 cup chicken broth
6 cups of coconut milk
salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup ground peanuts
1/2 1/2 brown sugar
1 tesapoon annato powder (achuete)

Cook over low heat until thick and mixture separates from the side of the skillet stirring constantly to prevent scorching.

Cool and set aside:

In another skillet or wok, combine;

2 cups of rice flour (not toasted)
3 cups of coconut milk
1 cup chicken broth salt and ground white pepper to taste

cook over low heat, as the first mixture. Cool and set aside;

Meanwhile, boil ;

4 eggs, sliced in eight's or whole quail eggs ( canned quail eggs will do)

In a wok or skillet saute and caramelize;

2 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 minced garlic cloves
1 diced onion

Add:

1 cup flaked chicken breast
1 cup julienne ham
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Cool

Slice;

Chorizo de Bilbao or pepperoni crosswise thin

Prepare the banana leaves;

Wash and wipe dry and cut into 5x5 inches pieces. Blanch in boiling water or pass through an open fire of a gas burner to make the leaves pliable. This also strengthens the leaves and will not split or tear while in he process of wrapping. I personally prefer blanching in boiling water...the easy way.

Lay two pieces on top of the other.

At the center put 2 tablespoon each of the flour mixtures side by side.
Pat lightly to to make a mound. Top with the meat mixture in the center, sliced eggs, Chorizo de Bilbao and a few roasted peanuts.

Overlap the two ends of the leaves over and fold encasing the "tamales " mixtures. Wrap again with another piece of leaf or aluminum foil into the desired bundles. Without the aluminum foil, you can tie the bundles with raffia or Cotton strings.

Steam for about an hour, Serve warm or cold.

Note: If you don't have a steamer, use the foil for the final wrap. place them on a large baking dish . Cover with aluminum sheet and steam-bake 350 degree oven for an hour.


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TAMALES MY MOTHER USE TO MAKE

This recipe is what I can remember my mother and use to make. It is not often that this was present in our dinning table because like working mother. she does not have the time to do it personally. We have a relative that specializes in this dish, sells the finished products to hotels and restaurants in Manila. So, our "tamales" for the holidays comes from the kitchen of a relative...bought! There is a lot of planning and work on this recipe, but worth it!

In a stock pot, boil in water to cover:

6 chicken breast
1 pound pork butt (optinal)... (you can use prepared cooked sliced ham and does not have to with the rest of the ingredients)
1 onion, halves
1 celery stalk
2 whole garlic cloves
2 chicken bouillon cubes

Drain, cool and set aside.

In the same broth cook;

1 pound shelled shrimps, just pink and opaque...don't over cook them.

Drain and set aside;

Combine and stir
2 cups water-ground corn meal
2 cups of water
cups of coconut milk
2 tablespoon chili powder
1/cup smooth peanut butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon azzafran ('kasubha")
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Place on top of the double boiler in simmering water.
Stir until the mixture is set and does not stick on the side of the pot. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Clean the top pot of the double boiler, combine and stir;

4 cups glutinous rice flour
2 cups chicken broth combine with,
2 8-ounces canned coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Cook the same as the first flour mixture...you should have a soft paste consistency for both of the pastes.

Cool and set aside.
Prepare the banana leaves as above recipe.

At the center of the banana leaves, put 2 heaping tablespoons of the paste mixture side by side, top with;

pieces of flaked chicken breast
sliced pork pieces...you can eliminate the pork and use ham instead.
sliced Chorizo de Bilbao
quartered piece of hard boil eggs or one quail egg

Wrap as above recipe, arrange on a steamer,steam for an hour.


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ALMOST LIKE TAMALES...BUT!

This is a pseudo-tamales in a sense and look like the real tamales. This I found while in Hong Kong and sometimes they are sold frozen in some Asian supermarket that has been wrap in bamboo leaves...yes! bamboo leaves are big in China.

Soak overnight;

3 cups glutinous rice (malagkit), washed and drain

Transfer to a microwave-casserole dish and add and blend well;

3 cups coconut milk
1 table spoon chili powder
1 teaspoon chicken bouillon powder or mashed

Cover the casserole dish with plastic wrap and place in the microwave oven, set for "rice." When the "ringer" of the oven indicates the rice is done...I assure you that it not! Stir the rice, turning over several times, discard the the plastic wrap and place a wet paper towel on top and cover with lid or another plastic wrap...COOK TWICE!

Cooking twice will assure you to have a tender glutinous rice. Cool and set aside.

Have ready;

3 hard boil eggs, quartered
4 chicken breast, boil and flaked into 12pieces
12 slice pieces of ham
1 Chorizo de Bilbao, cut into 12 slices
1 cup of unsalted roasted peanuts

Divide the rice into 12 portions, make a compact mounds on prepared banana leaves. Place on top of the mounds...in the following order; ham, chicken, chorizo, peanut and eggs

Follow instruction for the banana leaves preparation and wrapping as from the above recipes.

Steam for an hour.

Serve with your favorite salsa.

"GULAY" - VEGETABLES

SAUTEED VEGETABLES - GUISADONG GULAY

On any Filipino tables, vegetables always comes sauteed with bits of pork meat with fat on it and a handful of shrimps. "Bago-ong is sometimes used for flavoring. Always with garlic, onions and tomatoes. Vegetable dishes are part of the grilled or broiled meat or fish entrees. Fresh vegetables are cooked tender crisp never "wilted-dead" in the pot." They were prepared just in time, piping hot before everybody sits for the meal. The Chinese have their stir-fry, the Filipinos have their "guisado' which in any way have no difference in execution.

The varieties of vegetables in the Asian market can boggle your mind. Any ethnic group who has a penchant for a certain vegetable won't be disappointed from the selections. My early day here in America, I always maintain a vegetable garden. While living in Italy, in a high-rise apartment, my garden was all potted in the terrazzo. I plant bitter melons and other Filipino vegetables hard to come by in the Italian market. It the early '60, snow peas are not available as today. I have to improvise, taking off the inner skin of sweet peas and teat them like snow peas without the seeds, Without the "patola," zucchini serves the purpose.

The backyard of most of the Filipinos have a little space even for the lowly sweet potato plants, not for the tubers but for the young sprouts that is used for sour soup or like me, I harvest them and pickle them, save then and have it with for accompaniment with fried fish or meat "tapa".

I plant squash, not much for the gourds , but for the male blossoms. This is hard to come by in any super market even today. They are specially sold to high class restaurant for the gourmand. The are good stuffed with mozzarella cheese, dip in eggs, rolled on bread crumbs and sauteed in little oil. I maintain some herbs like oregano. rosemary, lemon grass and basil's. Sometimes I plant several garlic cloves for "guisadong bawang" with "stanghon." We have our perennial lemon and calamansi trees and the bay leaves tree.

BULANG-LANG - MIX FILIPINO VEGETABLE SAUTE

Prepare the vegetables, wash, cut and slice accordingly;

1 Chinese eggplant. cut in bias 2-inch thick
2 bitter melon, "ampalaya", cut length-wise, scoop the seeds and the pulp with a teaspoon, discard and cut the same as the eggplant.
1/2 lb, string beans "sitaw" cut into 2-inch long
1/2 lb. "kang-kong "rao muong" in Vietnamese, wash thoroughly, discard old leves and cut 2-inch length.
1 lb. "kabucha" squash, seeded and cut 1x1/2 squares. This Japanese squash variety need not be peeled. You can eat the skin too.
1 lb. baby okra

Brown;

1 lb. lean pork, cut in cubes bite size pieces or pork spareribs cut on half. But you have to par-boil them, season and fried before adding to the vegetables.*

In the same skillet, add and cook until tomatoes are soft;

2 minced garlic cloves
1 diced medium onion
2 quartered tomatoes

Stir an cook for 3 minutes;

Add;

1 tablespoon "bagoong."
1/2 lb. shelled shrimps (or more)

Add the vegetables in the following order;

"kabucha squash, cook until soft
eggplant and bitter melon
string beans
baby okra
"kangkong"

Simmer until all the vegetables are crisp tender.
Correct seasoning with fish sauce and ground pepper.

Serves 6 to 8

*Note: Grilled beef ribs or other cuts of meat can be used in the recipe. In the countryside, grilled or fried fresh fish are incorporated with the cooked vegetables. Don't forget the "bagoong"!

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"AMPALAYA" - BITTER MELON

Bitter melon is classified as momodica charantia.

Although the bitter melon gourd is common throughout the New World Tropics, it is actually native of the old world. At maturity, the warty yellow gourd splits open to reveal its striking seeds, are covered with bright red aril. The attractive seeds are eaten and dispersed by birds. In their acquired culinary value, the young gourds, light to dark green color are used for astonishing variety of ailments, for chronic colitis, and dysentery to burns,gout's, cough, and severe menstrual periods.

If by chance you notice a warty cucumber like vegetable with a bumpy-glossy skin in one of the Asian market, they are bitter melons or "ampalaya' as the Filipinos calls them. They have a pleasant-bitter taste raw or cooked. When cut in halves, seeded and sliced thin cross-wise, them blanched in salted water will eliminate some bitterness, can be cooked as the recipe below.

Bitter melon can be stuffed with ground pork like zucchini or sliced very thin, squeeze with salts and rinsed for salads. They can even be cooked in syrup, candied and eaten as sweets,


BITTER MELON GUISADO

Wash and cut length-wise in half, Scoop the seeds and scrape the white pulp. Slice thin diagonally. Par-boil in salted water for about 5 minutes, drain and dump in a iced cold water (this will stop the cooking process). Set aside.

4 medium size bitter melons

In a wok saute'

2 cloves of garlic
1/2 inch fresh ginger, julienne
1 diced onion
2 diced fresh tomatoes

Cook until the tomatoes are soft.

Add;

1/2 ground lean beef or pork
1/2 lb. shelled shrimps
2 tablespoon "tausi" black bean

Stir;

The drained bitter melon, stir to heat about 3 minutes. The bitter melon should have the tender crisp touch.

The last minutes of cooking time add and stir;

1 beaten whole egg, stir again until the eggs are done.

*Note: Since the black beans has a lot of salt content, no need for salt. Correct seasoning with ground black pepper.


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STUUFFED "KABUCHA"

I was very pleased that the supermarkets now carries this variety of squash. I first tasted this in Sasebo, Japan during my "food hunt." I was leery at first when I saw the skin, but brave enough, I ate it and found that they are edible. I figure if the Japanese eat it, I can eat it too.

This recipe is my own innovations.

Make a circle cut on top of a medium size squash to make a lid. If it has a stem attached to the squash, the better.

Scoop the seeds and the pulp with a spoon. Set aside.

Mix well and stuff with:

1 lb. lean ground pork or even ground turkey
1 can water chestnut, grated
1/2 cup cloud ears fungi (pre-soaked in hot water
1 chopped small onion
1/2 teaspoon chopped fine fresh ginger
1 slightly beaten egg
2 tablespoon corn starch
salt and pepper to taste*

If you have powdered chicken bouillon, use about a teaspoon instead of salt.

After filling the squash, place the lid and wrap in aluminum foil
Bake in moderate oven 350 for 1 1/2 hours
Let rest for fifteen minute and unwrap, transfer to a serving dish.
Sliced six to eight equal portions and served with sweet and sour sauce or any flavored gravy.

TOP RAMEN MY WAY

Every time or most often when I shop at the Vietnamese supermarket, I always notice that most of the orientals buys instant noodles by cases. Of course this is no surprise...! Noodles is the mainstay of most of their dally diets. One has only to boil some water, open the package and dump tho contents...presto you have a snack or a meal.

Once in a while I had my share of "Top Ramen." This reminds me of my young days when I was in college. With the gang of classmates, we, at times ended in a Chinese eatery that specializes on noodles soup and steam BBQ pork buns or Sio- Pao. The two goes together all the time. "MAMON LUK" was the name of the place. The place is always crowded with customers, as a fact the place was two storey to accommodate them. We always go upstairs for our share of the meals. As I remember, the place is "dirty" to my standard nowadays. The bare wooden floor seem to have not been swept at all. When it is raining, mud is evident. At least there has been any one that got sick from eating there as I can tell. At least the "Mami and Sio-Pao were deliciously good!I am not sure it that place still exist. I read somewhere that the sons and daughters of the proprietor immigrated in the states and they have a stateside "MAMO LUK" somewhere in Northern California.

TOP RAMEN MY WAY

I follow the instruction on tho package but...I only use half of the seasoning that is included it the package. If I cook two packages, I just use one pack of the seasoning. I always have a few things ready to dump on the boiling water:

You can make combination to your hearts desire of the following:

pieces of leftover meat roast beef, pork chops even roast lamb.
shrimps
Chinese sausages or hot dog
cubed tofu
shredded carrot
pieces of vegetables, even lettuce on the last minute
an egg

Garnish with green onions or toasted crushed garlic.
I like mine with a lot of ground white pepper

"Mami" is one of the noodle soups that we acquired from the Chinese. It is easy to prepare and filling too. If you do not want to use the packaged "Top Ramen". you can make it with all kinds of noodles available in the market. The Japanese "udom," I found very satisfactory for this. Any fresh noodles is best than the dried one.
Use canned chicken broth if you are using chicken meat, beef broth with beef meats and Knorr's shrimp cube bouillons for fresh shrimps.

Make your own combinations...it is worth trying!

If you like to have the steamed BBQ pork buns...get it from any Oriental stores.

LANG-LANG

This is a combination using won ton wrapped ingredient, meat balls and "sotanghon," a transparent bean noodles. This combination is very Filipino all the way.

Mix in a bowl;

1/4 lb. ground lean pork
1 minced garlic clove
1 chopped small onion
1 teaspoon corn starch
salt and pepper to taste

Form into 1-inch balls, set aside

Meanwhile, cook and flake; save the broth and set aside:

6 cups of water
2 chicken breast
2 chicken bullion cubes

Saute!

1/4 lb. chopped fine shrimp until pink
1 small onion
salt and pepper to taste

Cool and wrap, teaspoon at a time in won ton wrappers. set aside.

Bring broth to boil, drop between two minute intervals;

The meat balls
Won-ton wrapped shrimp mixtures
1 package "sotanghom" (pre-soaked in warm water and drained)
1/2 cup "cloud ear" fungi* (pre-soaked in warm water)

*Note: Asian market sells them dried sliced or whole.

Flake chicken breast
1/2 lb. snow peas

Remove from heat and serve with;
Chopped scallions to
Toasted crushed garlic in oil

NOODLS BY THE BOXES...

Every time or most often when I shop at the Vietnamese supermarket, I always notice that most of the orientals buys instant noodles by cases. Of course this is no surprise...! Noodles is the mainstay of most of their dally diets. One has only to boil some water, open the package and dump tho contents...presto you have a snack or a meal.

Once in a while I had my share of "Top Ramen." This reminds me of my young days when I was in college. With the gang of classmates, we, at times ended in a Chinese eatery that specializes on noodles soup and steam BBQ pork buns or Sio- Pao. The two goes together all the time. "MAMON LUK" was the name of the place. The place is always crowded with customers, as a fact the place was two storey to accommodate them. We always go upstairs for our share of the meals. As I remember, the place is "dirty" to my standard nowadays. The bare wooden floor seem to have not been swept at all. When it is raining, mud is evident. At least there has been any one that got sick from eating there as I can tell. At least the "Mami and Sio-Pao were deliciously good!I am not sure it that place still exist. I read somewhere that the sons and daughters of the proprietor immigrated in the states and they have a stateside "MAMO LUK" somewhere in Northern California.

TOP RAMEN MY WAY

I follow the instruction on tho package but...I only use half of the seasoning that is included it the package. It I cook two packages, I just use one pack of the seasoning. I always have a few things ready to dump on the boiling water:

You can make combination to your hearts desire of the following:

pieces of leftover meat roast beef, pork chops even roast lamb.
shrimps
Chinese sausages or hot dog
cubed tofu
shredded carrot
pieces of vegetables, even lettuce on the last minute
an egg

Garnish with green onions or toasted crushed garlic.
I like mine with a lot of ground white pepper

"Mami" is one of the noodle soups that we acquired from the Chinese. It is easy to prepare and filling too. If you do not want to use the packaged "Top Ramen". you can make it with all kinds of noodles available in the market. The Japanese "udom," I found very satisfactory for this. Any fresh noodles is best than the dried one.
Use canned chicken broth if you are using chicken meat, beef broth with beef meats and Knorr's shrimp cube bouillons for fresh shrimps.

Make your own combinations...it is worth trying!

If you like to have the steamed BBQ pork buns...get it from any Oriental stores.

LANG-LANG

This is a combination using won ton wrapped ingredient, meat balls and "sotanghon," a transparent bean noodles. This combination is very Filipino all the way.

Mix in a bowl;

1/4 lb. ground lean pork
1 minced garlic clove
1 chopped small onion
1 teaspoon corn starch
salt and pepper to taste

Form into 1-inch balls, set aside

Meanwhile, cook and flake; save the broth and set aside:

6 cups of water
2 chicken breast
2 chicken bullion cubes

Saute!

1/4 lb. chopped fine shrimp until pink
1 small onion
salt and pepper to taste

Cool and wrap, teaspoon at a time in won ton wrappers. set aside.

Bring broth to boil, drop between two minute intervals;

The meat balls
Won-ton wrapped shrimp mixtures
1 package "sotanghom" (pre-soaked in warm water and drained)
1/2 cup "cloud ear" fungi* (pre-soaked in warm water)

*Note: Asian market sells them dried sliced or whole.

Flake chicken breast
1/2 lb. snow peas

Remove from heat and serve with;
Chopped scallions to
Toasted crushed garlic in oil

THE LONG, SHORT AND GIRD OF THE NOODLES

The word "pancit is no longer alien to the Americans. One way or another they had tasted "pancit" somewhere, either in the workplace "pot-luck" gatherings or some Filipino party. Pancit as a dish comes in many forms and the style it is presented. The dish is the mainstay in any Filipino gatherings---they are easy to make, depends upon one's budget, it is cheap. In big parties, it serves as a "filler." The dish is a must in birthday parties. The long rice noodles or any long noodles symbolizes longevity and good luck for the celebrant.

On ordinary day, I will cook the dish when we have bits and pieces of left over chops and other meat from previous meals. With some vegetables added and a baguette of French bread, our dinner is secured.

Nowadays, every birthday of Kai has the share of the dish. I made variations every time. I discovered the Vietnamese fresh rice noodles and that is what I am using lately. I found them better than the "soak-in water" type. They are fresh and comes in different gird...I like the big fat noodles. Substitution of noodles here instead of what was written will not affect the taste but will enhance the appearance....you can try them.

Classic Pancit Bihon
6-8 Servings

Soak separately in warm water;

1 12oz. package of rice noodles (bihon).
10 medium shitaki mushrooms, slices after soaking

Cut into small strips and stir fry until lightly brown;

2 tablespoon of vegetable oil
1/2 lb. lean ground pork
2 chicken breast meat, sliced into strips
and the sliced shitake mushrooms

Push the meat on one side of the wok, add and caramelize;

3 minced garlic cloves
1 large onion, diced

In corporate the meat, add and stir for about 5 minutes;
1/2 lb. shelled shrimps
2 Chinese sausages, cut thin on a bias

Add;

1 can chicken broth*
1 cup julienne cabbage or bok choy
1 cup julienne carrots
2 stalk celery or a bunch of "kinchay" if available
1 cup snow peas or 1 cup julienne snap beans

Taste and season with fish sauce and black pepper.

Using both hands with a wooden spatula or ladles, toss the mixture and add the pre-soaked and drained rice noodles. *At this time you might need to add some more chicken broth or just water. Toss again continuously until all the noodles absorbed the sauce in the wok. The pancit should be wet-dry and not soggy.

Correct seasoning and transfer to a platter, garnish with chopped green onions or chopped parsley and sliced hard boil eggs. Serve some sliced lemons or calamansi on the side.

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Pancit Canton
4-6 Servings


Cantonese egg noodles are ready deep fried and can be bought in 12oz. packages. There is no soaking needed as you have to incorporate the noodles after all the ingredients has been sauteed. It will look limp when it is done.

In a stock pot, boil with 4 cups water;

1/2 lb. lean pork
1 chicken breast
1 chicken boullion cube

When tender, remove from pot and slice the pork into strips and flake the chicken breast into pieces. Reserve 3 cups of the broth.

Saute in;

2 tablespoon vegetable oil

Until lightly brown and flavors infused;

1 medium onion, diced
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
3 minced garlic cloves

Add;

The pork and chicken, stir-fry for 2 minutes
2 Chinese sausages, cut thin bias-wise

Season with;

2 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon ground pepper

Add;

1/2 lb. shelled shrimps, cook until opaque(don't over cook the shrimp)

Stir -fry for another 3 minutes and add;

2 cups sliced thin Napa cabbage or Bok Choy
2 cups snow peas
1 stalk celery, sliced thin or "kinchay" if available
2 green onions, cut 1/2 inch length

Add;

Reserved broth
The Canton noodles

Stir-fry until the noodles and wilted and limp. Remember they are already cooked( you are only heating them up). You may add some water if the noodles absorbed the broth quickly to avoid sticking to the pot.

Served in platter garnish with chopped parsley and lemon wedges.

Garlic bread is a good accompaniment for this dish.


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PANCIT MALABON

There was a restaurant in Avenida Rizal in Manila when I was growing up and we frequently buy their Pancit Malabon to go. It is a little bit far from Herran, Paco where we live and one have to take the "trambia" (electric tram), but it is worth it. I can still remember the name of the restaurant..."Aling Dencia." anyway, through the years, I had exeprimented my own version of Pancit Malabon.

I use the 2 packages of Vietnamese noodles to start with...the fat one.

Have ready some;

2 cups squid adobo,cut in circles,
2 cans canned smoked oyster oysters.
1 can smoked herring, flaked

The secret here is the sauce that goes with it.
Combine:

3 to 4 cups of boiling water
2 cubes of Knorr shrimp boulion
1 4 oz. super silky tofu, mashed
1 or 2 scrammbled eggs
2 tablespoon cornstarch, dispers in 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon annato (achuete) powder

Simmer in low heat until thick and not lumpy, keep warm and set aside.

Stir-fry in;

2 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cloves of garlic
1 diced onion

When translucent add;

1/2 lb. shelled medium shrimps
1/2 cup pork or chicken strips
1 cup sliced Napa cabbage
1 cup snow peas
1 sliced thin celery stalk or a bunch of chopped "kinchay."
1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Simmer until the meat and shrimps are done, the vegtables wilted crisp.

Put the Vietnamese noodles in boiling salted water until well heated and limp to touch (they are also cooked and you are just heating them). Drain and trasfer to a wok or large skillet. They usually come in packages and sort of hard to touch. Putting them in boiling water also separate the threads apart. DO NOT OVER COOK THEM!

Put into the noodles the meat and shrimps mixture, the squid adobo, the oysters, the flaked herring, the vegetables and the sauce. Toss it gently using two ladles on each hand until everything is incorporated.

Trasfer to a serving dish...garnish the top with chopped or grated hard boiled eggs, crushed "chicharones" (pork cracklings). Chopped green onions.

Served with calamansi or lemon wedges.

SOME GLOSSARIES

Usually the glossary are in the back of a cook book...I thought about it and decided that it will help my readers, my nieces and nephews and other relatives that were born here in the States.

Achara---pickles vegetables and fruits served as relish or side dish...grated green papaya is the favorite.

Achuete-Annato---Seeds when soak will give a deep yellowish-orange color for flavor and coloring. The powder form that you can get in oriental and Mexican super market have the same effect.

Adobo---name of the dish cooked in this manner.

Alimango---dungenees, stone crabs or king and Alaskan crabs.

Alimasag---blue crab from Chesapeake Bay.

Almendras---Spanish name for Almonds.

Ampalaya---bitter melon gourd for vegetable "guisado" or for other dishes that calls for the vegetable.

Arroz--- Spanish for rice.

Assafran---the Filipinos calls the "kasubha" not to be confused with the saffron threads.

Baboy---Tagalog name for pork and pig.

Bacalao---salted cod fish generally the choice of the Filipinos during the Good Friday dish.

Bagoong---fermented shrimp fry, anchovies, or clams used for seasoning on stir fry vegetables. Also use as dipping sauce for any fresh sour fruits, and other meat and fishes dishes.

Balo-balao---fermented rice with shrimps cooked as dipping sauce.

Balut---duck egg with (no more no less)fourteen days old embryo, Boiled and eaten with rock salt. generally sold at night by street vendors. Purported as an aphrodisiac

Bangus---milk fish.

Batao---hyacinth beans, look like a lima bean but with lighter green color and with a purple edges on both sides.

Bibingka---baked glutinous rice, rice flour corn flour bake with coconut and brown sugar.

Biko---thin spread cake made of glutinous rice flour, corn flour, casava flour or whole grain glutinous rice cooked onb a wok.

Bihon---rice noodle use for pancit. These noodles were pre-cooked and dried. they need to be soaked in water before incorporating the meat and vegetable mixture. They also varies in size. The Filipinos prefer the small thread.

Bok-Choy---Chinese cabbage, "pechay", in Tagalog. There are several kinds of this vegetables in the Asian market. Big leaves with white stems, baby bok-choy that is all green but half the size of the ,latter. There is also the Napa cabbage, very pale green leaves with white stems and big. Actually they are all the same.

Bukayo---the Filipino version of macaroon, Young coconut cooked with brown sugar eaten as sweets.

Buko---young coconut

Bulang-lang---sauteed vegetable combo with fish or pork seasoned with bagoong.

Calmansi---native citrus fruit used instead of lemon. Also known as "calamondin."

Callos---tripe in Spanish.

Camaron---Spanish term for shrimps.Caramelize---sauteing in a small amount of vegetable oil or butter onions, garlic or root vegetables until the sugar content are extracted and have a brownish color.

Caedillo--- fish dishes with beaten and cuddled eggs.

Casuy---cashew nuts.

Chinese Sausages---"Lap Xuong Thong Hang" as the Chinese calls them. They come in a package of ten or twelve pieces usually cured pork meat with pieces of suet's between, semi-hard. It could be sweet and at times made of prok liver. I call them Chinese peperoni.

Chorizo de Bilbao---Spanish hard sausages originated from the district of Bilbao in Spain, used to enhance flavor of typical inspired Spanish dishes.

Churerra---tube for pipping churro paste for deep frying.

Dilis---dried anchovies, toasted be could be a delightful "pulutan" with iced cold beer.

Dinugoan--pig blood and meat stew.

Dolmas---Greek, ground lamb meat rolled on a grape leaf.

Dulong---silver fish or tiny fish fry.

Enbutido---term for encasing forced meat dishes in the fat lining of the pig's stomach (peritoneum

LUMPIA

"LUMPIA" comes with different ingredients, Whenever I visited my grandparents in the suburb on the weekends, I tagged along with my grandfather to the cockpit arena. I am not an enthusiast cock fighter aficionado like him, but always looking forward to what I can eat from the different food stalls there. Now that I had developed my taste buds, I deemed the "lumpia" sold there are very pedestrian. The ingredients are coarsely cut sweet potatoes, chickpeas, jicama and other vegetables with hint of shrimp or ground pork. I can vividly remember that the color was saffron yellow from the "achuete. Those days I gorged myself with that kind of lumpia and other goodies at the arena.

Lumpia is only good depending on the combination of ingredients the cook rolled inside the wrapper The different region of the Philippines showcases their versions---from the banal to the exotic. They are all good! " The awareness and emphasis on health,one can make a vegetarian egg roll with soy based artificial meat products and vegetables of your choice.The possibilities are limitless and efforts will be well compensated at the dinning table.

The recipe below was an innovation on my part...thus I call this as more of a nouvelle cuisine, combining influences of the neighboring Asian countries with a Filipino touch.

FRESH LUMPIA


Prepare PURPLE YAM CREPES:

1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup corn starch
1/2 cup purple yam flour (can be bought in oriental super markets)
3 tablespoon melted butter
1 whole egg
1 1/2 iced cold water (approximately)*

Sift all dry ingredients in mixing bowl. Make a well in the center, add eggs and melted butter, mix thoroughly. *The batter should have a consistency of a heavy cream. If the batter is too thick, add tablespoon at a time until you reach the right consistency. Refrigerate for at least an hour. This will give the butter to form a little grain-like particles.

Heat a 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Spray a small amount of "Pam" (non-stick oil spray or with a paper towel wipe the skillet with oil). With a medium soup scoop the batter and pour into the pan and quickly give it a gentle swish spreading a thin coat of batter into the pan. Cook until the top is dry and invert the crepe, cook another 30 seconds. Slide the crepe from the skillet to plate. Cook tha rest of the batter, cover with a kitchen towel.

Lumpia Filing

Peel and slice;

1 medium size jicama (singkamas) cut in thin julienne
1 small carrots, cut thin julienne
1/2 medium size cabbage, thin julienne
1 stalk celery, dice fine

Set aside.

Wash and drain;
1 lb, mung bean sprouts

Saute and caramelize in;
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 cloves minced garlic
1 medium size chopped onion

Add;

1 lb lean ground pork
1 lb. shrimp, chopped coarsely

Sir-fry until the pork and the shrimp are done. Add all the vegetables, stir-fry for about five minutes. Do not over cook the vegetables. It should be crisp to the bite. Season with fish sauce and freshly ground pepper. Set aside to col a bit and start assembling the lumpia.

To Assemble;

Wash and dry with paper towel lettuce leaves (romaine, red oak, butter lettuce or bib are recommended) Lay out the crepe on a plate, place lettuce leaf at the center, a sprig of cilantro, put about two tablespoon or more of the filling on top and roll and fold like a rolled taco, but with one end tucked in...

Peanut Sauce

Lightly brown;
2 teaspoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoon chopped shallot

Add;

1 cup coconut milk
1 cup peanut butter
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon Thai chili sauce (optional or to taste)

Stir and simmer for five minutes or until hot. cover and set aside.

Serve two rolls on a plate, pour peanut sauce on top, garnish with cilantro and roasted peanuts.


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FRESH LUMPIA "MY WAY"

Like I said above lumpia comes with different ingredients and still can be called a lumpia.

Prepare the Crepe;

1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup corn starch
1 who;e egg
1 tablespoon melted butter or vegetable;e oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup iced cold water

Put all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix thoroughly.You should have a consistency of a heavy cream. Heat an 8-inch non-stick skillet. Pour about 4 tablespoonful of batter into the pan, swishing the batter in a circular manner until the pan is thinly covered. Cook until the top is dry, invert with a spatula and cook for another 30 seconds. Cook the rest of the batter, stack them on a plate one on top of the other, set aside covered with a kitchen towel till you are ready to roll the lumpia.

Assembly;

On a plate, lay crepe flat right side up (the side that hit the pan first), place a lettuce leaf on the edge of the crepe and a cilantro sprig. Put 2 tablespoonful meat and vegetable mixture, roll once, folding the other end to hold the mixture, continue to roll until you reach the other side of the crepe. Transfer the finished lumpia to a serving dish with the end-flap facing down. Continue the same procedure and until all the crepes has been rolled and rolled.




Lumpia Ingredients:

Rinse and drain:

1 lbs fresh bamboo shoots
1 carrot, coarsely grated
1 4-ounces water chestnut, coarsely grated

Saute in a wok until translucent;

1 medium size chopped onion
2 cloves of minced garlic

Add;

1 lb. ground lean pork
1 lb. shelled and chopped shrimps

Cook and stir for 10 minutes,

Add the bamboo shoots, carrots and water chestnut
Correct seasoning with fish sauce and flesh ground pepper.

"MA ALAT" Sauce for this lumpia.

I have no idea why the Filipino calls this "Ma Alat." Literally in Tagalog the word means salty. I guess this because of the soy sauce., but as you will taste it, it is a combination of salty-sweet taste.

In a sauce pan;

Combine and mix well;

3 tablespoon cornstarch
1/4 cup soy sauce
6 tablespoon of brown sugar
1 1/2 cup water

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly to prevent lumpia.
Spoon the sauce on individual lumpia with minced fresh garlic.


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FRIED LUMPIA

During the days of my socialising and hob nobbing in the art scene, when people I met learned that I am Filipino, The number one question they asked was, "do you cook lumpia"? At first, it was alright for me, but as it become the norm, and felt disconcerted, I will say, "yes, especially if I expect an Anglo visitor" ...this way I can get rid of my left overs in the fridge," I imagine the retort was a little bit snooty...yet, I would let them know that the Filipino have an array of dishes other than the lumpia. This just like that most people I know will associate the Filipinos with the "Tinikling" or dancing the folk dance between two bamboo poles. This lead me to make a proposal to the Museum of Man to have a Filipino exhibition about the Philippine...'RITE OF PASSAGE-PILIPINO". The show was a big success that it was extended many times until it reached two and half years at the museum. Well that is another story...back to the lumpia!

PHILIPPINE EGG ROLLS

Combine and mix well;

1/2 lb. ground lean pork
1/2 lb. shrimps. chopped fine
1/2 lb. fillet of sole, chopped fine
1/2 cup coarsely grated water chestnuts
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 egg
1 teaspoon cornstarch

Separate the won ton wrapper individually.
place a tables spoonful of the mixture on each wrapper. Roll to a finger size, folding both ends, brush the flap-end with egg whites to seal. Deep fry in hot oil, drain on paper towel.

Serve with sweet and sour sauce.

AGRE Y DULCE/ SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

Combine;

2 cups of pineapple juice
1/2 cup tomato catsup
3 tablespoon corn starch
Tabasco sauce to taste (optional)

Bring to boil, simmer, stirring until thickens. Finely chopped pineapple, red and green bell pepper will add to the texture.

ADOBADA...HERE IS MY OWN

Living abroad for the last fifty years, I had encountered and tasted different "adobado" in my culinary adventures...here is my own!

CHICKEN THIGH WITH POLISH SAUSAGES ADOBO

In a glass or non-metallic bowl, marinate for at last an hour*:

15 chicken thighs
1/2 cup mild vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 head of garlic, crushed
1 small onion, chopped
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (optional)

*I generally use zip lock bag...no mess in turning the marinade.

Place onto a wok:

Add:

1 Mexican chorizo (remove the casing if any)

Bring to a boil and lower heat to a simmer until the meat is done, but not falling apart. Remove the chicken from the wok and dredge lightly with flour. Scoop the rendered fats from the chorizo and discard or save and refrigerate for fried rice later.

In another skillet with small amount of vegetable oil, fry the chicken pieces until brown.

Return to the degreased sauce with;

1 smoked polish sausage, cut into 1-inch length.

Simmer until the sausages are well heated, stir occasionally to avoid scorching in the bottom of the wok.

Garnish with chopped scallions or "kuchay" (chives).

Serve 8 to 10

Note:

By adding pineapple chunks or whole water chestnuts will give it a new twist. Whole boiled chestnuts not water chestnuts) is another way to create a new dish. The sweetness of the chestnuts will balance the acidity of the vinegar, This time garnish with Thai basil leaves.

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Here is another one that may tickle your taste buds...

CHULETAS ADOBADO

This one calls for baby back ribs and so finger licking!

Cut:

1 side of baby back ribs, about 2 lbs., cut into individual portions.

Place and combine on a plastic zip-lock bag with;

1 cup mild white vinegar
2 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 small can of chipolte chili Optional)
2 bay leaves, crushed
6 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

Refrigerate, turn and shaking the bag once, marinate at least an hour.

Place on a wok, bring to a boil and simmer until the meat is is done (usually the meat on the ribs will shrink and will show part of the bone)...or when the marinade was reduced...thick enough like BBQ sauce. Transfer ribs to a broiler pan, brush the sauce among the ribs and brown.

Instead of a broiler, you can use an outside grill to brown the ribs and this will be just perfect for patio or garden party.


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ADOBO ESPANIOL

Years ago in Manila my mother has a recipe she called "adobo espaniol". I am not sure now where the name came from...but with my adventure when visiting Spain or the Canary Islands, I haven't encountered anything similar to the dish. I know that my sister still cooks the dish so as my sister-in-law in Manila. Once in a while I cook the dish for our dinner, but I assure you that I had made some editing.

This is me version:

Marinate at least an hour:

1 3 pound whole chic1 cup vinegar
6 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 bay leaf
Place is a wok, bring to a boil and simmer until done but not falling apart.

Dicard the bay leaf.

Scoop the chicken and lightly dredge it with flour.

In another skillet,fry the chicken in a small amount of vegetable oil until browm, return to the sauce in the wok. This will make the chicken looks "luto" (cooked) and does not have an anemic appearance.

Add;

2 cups of mayonaise
2 thinly sliced chorizo de Bilbao*

*Until recently, chorizo de Bilbao was hard to get...now I can get them at Seafood City Supermarket in National City. I use regular peperoni instead and it works.

Simmer for 5- 8 minutes. Scoop the oil that came from the mayonaiseand discard.

Seasoned with salt to taste. I generally don't put any salt, because the chorizo and the mayonaise will satisfy for the salt flavor.

Trasfer to a platter, pour the sauce on top and garnish with sweet gherkins or sweet pickles. I like my sweet gherkins or sweet pickles crisp to the bite.


I think on my mother's version, she did not dredged nor brown the chicken, she had the sweet pickle right afer the incorporation of the mayonaise and I am sure that she also added some sliced hot dogs.

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ADOBO ALA MONJA

I found this recipe from the Congressional Wives of the United States, dated in the '30. My Lola Edang, cousin of my maternal grandmother was the wife of the first Commissioner of the Philippines during the Commnwealth era. He was Pedro Guevarra, under the first president of the Philippines, Manuel L. Quezon. They lived in Washington DC for many years and when Don Pedro died, she came back to Manila and she comes to my mother's dressshop for her dresses. She was a very graceful and fastidious woman. She regalled us with stories of her life and adventures in America. Like what I had written above, ADOBO is the closest thing as the national dish of the Philippines and that is what she contributed in the book for the COngressional Wives Cook Book.

The recipe is the basic adobo style, but she added mashed liver to the sauce and caled it "Adobo Ala Monja".In my version, I made a concoctions of a pate' recipe and add it to the chicken adobo to make it to the present standard of culinary arts./strong>

ADOBO

SQUID ADOBO IN COCONUT MILK DEEP FRIED MARINATED KINGS FISH

This is what we had for dinner tonight with lemon buttered asparagus pickle Vietnamese green mangoes steamed rice. For dessert we had some freshly picked loquats from the backyard. Iced cold coffee later for me. Calamari or squid adobo-style can be an eating experience not to be missed.

SQUID ADOBO IN COCONUT MILK

Pull the head with the tentacles carefully. Remove the mouth from the head located at the center of the tentacles. Remove the yellowish sac and the long transparent cartilage. Rinse and pat dry with paper towel. Stuff the head back to the body cavity of the squid.

2 lbs fresh medium sized squids

Saute and brown:
5 clove of garlic, minced
1 small onion, diced

Add:
1 cup mild white vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon black pepper

Stir in:
the squids

Simmer and stir for 5 minutes or until the squids are opaque-pink. Remove from heat, strain in a colander removing all the liquid. Return the liquid to the skillet and add;
1 canned coconut milk

Bring to a boil and simmer until the cream curdle and separated from the oil. Return the squid, toss for 2 minutes and transfer to a serving dish.

Garnish with chopped green onions.
Serves: 4 to 6

MARINATED AND DEEP FRIED KING FISH

I bought six king fish and had the guys at the fish market clean them for me. This way I don't have to contend with the scales flying all over the kitchen. I scored the fish on both sides, seasoned it with a mixture of garlic salt, onion salt, black pepper, paprika and a dash of chili powder. Placed them in a plastic bag, squeezed juice of one lemon (our lemon tree have humongous sized fruits) and let it stand in the refrigerator overnight. Before cooking, it was pat down with paper towel and, place on a a plastic bag. Poured half a cup of flour with a teaspoon of salt and shake the bag so the flour will coat the fish. The secret of deep frying is generally how hot the oil is. I always have my oil tested with a piece of bread...when the bread turned golden brown, that is when I drop the fish to the fryer.

BASIC FILIPINO ADOBO

Cut in serving pieces:
1 lb. boneless pork shoulder
1 3 lbs chicken1 head garlic,crushed
1 teaspoon freshly ground black peppercorn
1/2 cup white vinegar
1/3 cup soy sauce
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon red paprika
1 teaspoon chicken broth powder or 1 cube of the same
1 tablespoon of canola or vegetable oil

Place all the above ingredients in a zip-lock bag, turning the bag once, let it stand in the refrigerator for at least two hours.

Spray the skillet with non-stick cooking oil, transfer the chicken and pork with the marinade. bring to a full boil, lower the heat to a simmer until the chicken and pork is done.

When the marinade is reduced, the fats rendered from the pork appears, continue cooking in low heat, turning the meat pieces occasionally until they are brown.

Serve hot or warm over steamed rice. Green salad on the side, or other steamed and buttered vegetables desired and a cold beer.

Almost anything can be cooked adobo style, beef, fish, shellfish, and vegetables in addition to chicken and pork. I will be posting them sometimes in the future.